Wednesday 18 May 2011

The Legacy of Bung Bratak

On 1 May every year, the Bidayuh in Tembawang Sauh will see pilgrims going up Bung Bratak. 'Bung' means mountain or hill top. So, Bung Bratak means the top of Bratak Hill. The name Tembawang Sauh also carries a historical significance. 'Tembawang' means an old settlement, ususally a few 'splinter' villages break away from it. In the Sadung dialect, this is known as 'mawang'. That is why we have villages called Mawang Taup, Tema Mawang, Temong Mawang (sounds familiar), Tubih Mawang etc. In Sadung, the opposite of 'mawang' is 'plaman'; a new settlement. So, we have Plaman Nyabet, Tubih Plaman, Plaman Sa'an etc. O.k. back to Tembawang Sauh. 'Sauh' (Souh) means burnt. So, by now can you guest what 'Tembawang Sauh' means? Yes, it means 'burnt settlement'. Who burned it?

According to the written statement found at the site, a few centuries ago (probably more than 700 years ago), a group of adventurers from Sungkong in Kalimantan wandered to find green pastures. In those days there wasn't any Kalimantan (Indonesia) or Sarawak (Malaysia). There was only an island only with perhaps communal boundaries. These adventurers (imagine the wild west movies) reach the peak of a fertile hill and decided to make it their settlement. They named their village Bung Bratak.

Fast forward...the village was attacked by marauders in around 1838. These raiders were from Skrang. Hundreds were enslaved. Panglima Kulow, with the help of James Brooke recaptured Bung Bratak in 1841. According to the info released by Bung Bratak Foundation, there are 30 villages originated from Bung Bratak. They spread all over Bau and Lundu Districts and even one in Padawan. These villages still recognise Bung Bratak as their place of origin or 'tembawang'.

Going to Bung Bratak is not that challenging. It 's a 20-25 minute walk. Depending on your state of health and stamina. I even came across a grand ma, perhaps around 80 years old and a mother carrying a baby going up the hill. But a word or warning, I observed a few youngsters who were gasping for air. May be they had taken a bit of 'tuak' or they are heavy smokers. Forgive me, may be I am a kampung boy, so it was not much of a problem going up the hill. For your info, I'd been to Gunung Jerai, Gunung Santubong, Mulu and the nearest is Singgai, yeaah...

On 1 May, the cultural groups from a few villages will put up their best dress and present their traditional dances. A  ritual is performed by a traditional priest. It is a simple but interesting event.

The young performers doing the 'belanggi'
 
The traditonal priest preparing the 'sadis'


















Bung Bratak is suitable for us to take a break from the hectic city life and just to break our routine. You will see a nice view if you reached the peak at around 7.30 am. Really amazing, never know that we have such a view. Actually it's facing the Singgai area; Mts Singgai and Serapi.

 
 The 'sea' from the hilltop
The experience on top of Bratak was very sentimental. I walked around the area trying to imagine where the houses, the baruk and the 'playground' were. I imagined the young kids running around where I stood. It was early in the morning, perhaps the maidens were on their way to the washing area where the 'ayak' were, to do their morning chores and perhaps the men were still sitting around me smoking their leaf cigars.

I left Bung Bratak with 1001 "perhaps" and perhaps hundreds of years to come my generation will imagine where I once stood with my camera. "Bidapud lagi..."

"How will my future be..."


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